Thursday 1 August 2013

Day 7 - Walking on an unlit African street


Sat 27th July

When I walk from the bus stop back to my hotel after sunset, I’m going through a dirt track with no street lighting. In the darkness, the sounds become salient, and the auditory wallpaper of chirruping crickets is punctuated by the sound of loud bullfrogs in the ditches bellowing out their croaks in an attempt to attract a mate.

The other animal I occasionally hear is the metallic oil-fuelled beast whose headlights transform the uneven road surface into a dramatic chiaroscuro of lit mountain ranges and peaks against deep dark valleys of darkness; peaks and valleys that move with the gentle passing of the vehicle. When placing your steps, aim for the peaks. In those treacherous valleys of darkness there could be anything: animals, a ditch, or a deep dark hole in the road. Even absenting a hole, its depth is unknown, and could send a shudder up your body as you step onto ground that was lower than you thought.

In that darkness, the rare approaching passersby are reduced to walking silhouettes, as the blackness of the night robs them of the facial features that bring people to life. Like ghosts, they waft before the silhouettes of majestic trees that strike out bold shapes against the distant faint twilight of the night sky with its unfamiliar constellations.


When I reach the hotel, I knock on the massive metal gate, and the guard slowly creaks it open, leading me back to the land of light. Unless there’s a power cut! 

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